Mamma Mia Isla

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Francois Braconnier

Durante la ocupación turca llegaron a Grecia muchas misiones de jesuitas. Estos religiosos europeos nos proporcionaron interesantes descripciones de muchas regiones de Grecia, publicadas en una serie de tomos en 1753. Uno de estos jesuitas, Francois Braconnier, probablemente visitó Skópelos en 1706. En las “memorias” de Braconnier encontramos las impresiones de este hombre sobre Skópelos, que en esa época se hallaba en su mayor apogeo.

«…Al tercer día desembarqué en Skópelos, la más importante de estas islas, la cual no ha sido muy estudiada ni por los antiguos ni por los más modernos historiadores. Se trata, en realidad, de una pequeña isla con un perímetro de más de 30 millas muy cultivada. Tiene unos 8-10.000 habitantes, que viven en una ciudad bastante bonita cuyo nombre no significa nada especial.

Dicen que hace 200 años la isla estaba desierta y que el jefe de cocina o el jefe de los tahoneros de la Puerta Sublime, que era dueño de la isla, trajo a muchos griegos de las regiones más próximas para repoblar la isla. Durante la ocupación turca los habitantes de Skópelos tienen privigelios que no tienen otras regiones. Entre ellos no vive ningún infiel. Cuentan con la libertad de tocar las campanas de las iglesias y colocar cruces en las calles y en las colinas. Para resolver los casos judiciales están obligados a recurrir a los jueces turcos, aunque se les paga la dieta alimenticia sólo durante tres días.

Tienen un obispo griego, que gestiona también la iglesia de Skiathos. Skópelos produce poco trigo pero en compensación produce mucho vino. Se trata, por lo general, de un vino tinto denso, de color oscuro, cuyo sabor no es muy placentero ya que para su conservación embadurnan con alquitran refinado una de las tablas de los barriles grandes y es así como el vino adquiere sabor a alquitrán, no muy agradable al paladar.

Desde que los venecianos se hicieron dueños de Morea, han comprado grandes cantidades de este vino y los franceses se han visto beneficiados con su comercio. Lo transportan a Corfú y a Salónica. En Skópelos también se produce vino blanco tan bueno como el orujo que obtienen del vino tinto o de la masa pulposa que queda tras el prensado de las uvas. La isla está llena de manantiales. Además hay muchos cedros, limoneros, naranjos y otros árboles de frutos excepcionales.

Me ha parecido una isla idónea como base para mis excursiones debido a su localización, pero como el tiempo apremiaba, ya que había gastado 8 días de la totalidad de mi viaje para organizar y convencer a cuantos franceses me encontraba, puse rumbo a Eubea» .

Tags: isla de mamma mia

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Francois Braconnier

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